An amazing true life story about one of the best surfers Australia has ever known who descended into a world of drugs, only problem is they masked the fact that he had a deeper underlying problem which was Schizophrenia which went undiagnosed for years..a brilliant surfer whose decline was spectacular and who spent many years in jail and Psychiatric hospitals and emerged years later to find a myth like reputation had grown up around him!!
Even if you dont like or know anything about surfing this book is amazing!!!